For a place that boasts such a magisterial moniker, the diminutive Supreme Kitchen is actually kind of easy to miss. Nestled on a residential block on the outskirts of Davis Square, the breakfast-and-lunch nook is distinguished by its red-and-white checkered sign and, currently, a large, patriotic placard endorsing Somerville mayoral candidate Joe Curtatone in the front window. Inside, the restaurant wears the haphazard décor of a bachelor pad — a row of pictures featuring slugger Barry Bonds, myriad cult-film posters, a street artist’s rendering of the band U2 — while its tables, dressed up with bouquets of artificial roses, evoke the prim coziness of a country café. The Kitchen’s no-frills menu, despite its slim selection, always offers something appealing. Breakfast is served-up Sopranos-style and is often prepared by the mustachioed proprietor, whose ever-present dark-tinted glasses remain in place even as he works the grill, adding an amusing element of authenticity to meals like the "Bada Bing" ($4.50) — three eggs, corned-beef hash, and toast — or the "Paulie Walnuts Special" ($4.50), a classic all-American breakfast of two eggs, toast, home fries or hash browns, and a choice of bacon, ham, or sausage. You won’t get whacked for requesting a more exotic breakfast meat with your meal, such as linguiça, chorizo, or kielbasa, but the management will squeeze you for another buck. During the lunch hour, the restaurant drops the mobster pretense and dishes revert to being called exactly what they are. The lunch menu includes all the usual suspects: a sizable six-ounce burger ($3.50), a tuna melt ($4), and an array of hot and cold subs, including a jam-packed Italian ($4.95), drizzled with a tangy purée of hot peppers, and a lightly sauced chicken parmesan ($4.50). And the homemade chili ($3.50)? Fuhgeddaboutit. With nearly everything on the menu priced under a fin, you can’t go wrong. No doubt about it, the Supreme Kitchen’s legit. Supreme Kitchen, located at 233 Highland Avenue, in Somerville, is open Monday through Saturday, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and on Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call (617) 628-4440.
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