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Cha Fahn
Tea for you?
BY BRIAN E. O’NEILL
Previous Columns

The latest addition to Jamaica Plain’s vibrant eating-and-drinking scene is a traditional Chinese tearoom named Cha Fahn, which means, appropriately enough, "tearoom" in Chinese. But according to Cha Fahn’s menu, the name also means "finding serenity in chaos."

Nestled in the former home of Gadgets on Centre Street, Cha Fahn’s brand of serenity is a welcome respite from the siren blares of the nearby fire station and the screeches of the number 39 bus. Everything about the place — the dark wood furniture (all imported from China), the Zen-garden window display, the rice-paper skylight — evokes a simple tranquility that makes whiling away the afternoon an almost meditative experience.

The food and drink could almost become an afterthought — if they weren’t so good. But they are, and the friendly and knowledgeable staff is quick to help with suggestions (and, in our case, pronunciations) for its full line of gourmet loose-leaf and bagged teas. On a recent visit, we tried the Lapsang Souchong ($4), a warming and smoky black-tea blend with strong hickory overtones, served loose in a white porcelain pot. We also tried Serene ($4), a bagged tea, served in a glass cup, that was light, fruity, and bursting with chamomile. Cha Fahn also offers a full "connoisseur" line of teas for $6 per cup.

The shop’s seven-page menu offers perfect teatime fare, in just the right portions. The goat cheese and apricot preserves with ginger tea sandwich ($4) arrives on two open slices of baguette, while freshly prepared Vietnamese summer rolls ($5) come with a delightfully spicy, somewhat tangy peanut sauce.

With only eight tables (each accompanied by very cool high-backed chairs), Cha Fahn is small enough to be called cozy. But we fear that once word gets out, eight tables won’t be enough to satisfy everyone who’s looking for a little serenity and a great cup of tea.

Cha Fahn, located at 763 Centre Street, in Jamaica Plain, is open daily, from noon to 9 p.m. Call (617) 983-3575, or visit www.chafahn.com


Issue Date: November 21 - 27, 2003
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