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People’s Republik
Food for the people
BY KATE COHEN
Previous Columns

The People’s Republik has long been known for its special brand of Cantabrigian soup. Under the shadow of a large bomb replica, crusty regulars rub elbows with baby-faced academics at the bar, as twentysomething hipsters toss darts and take friendly challenges from strangers for next game. Recently, the bar has added an actual soup du jour as part of a regular menu available from noon until 8 p.m. Eating food at the Republik might take some getting used to for those accustomed to stumbling through the big red door and pushing through the thick midnight crowd for a weekend nightcap, but there’s nothing wrong with getting an early start for these cheap eats.

The staff might still be working out some menu kinks, but they welcome feedback. Order a portobello-mushroom sandwich ($5.50), and the chef himself might appear, offering sauce options from industrial plastic squeeze bottles with handwritten labels (we recommend the Cajun). A generous helping of fried chicken wings ($6) is accompanied by yet more squeeze bottles. The menu covers the basics with a Guinness beef stew ($6.50) and a caesar salad ($5) that’s available with tasty grilled chicken ($5.75). Both come with chunky croutons. The chef also takes a stab at local notoriety by offering a Cuban sandwich ($7) to rival that of Chez Henri.

Specials rotate in time with the daily witty aphorism on the outside chalkboard. The bartenders, who remember a face as readily as they do a drink order, can steer the hungry toward the good stuff. But really, it’s all good stuff; sandwiches come with savory roasted potatoes, and everything goes well with the long list of beers.

Time was, patrons could have a pizza delivered at the bar. Those days might be over, but this bar food proves a satisfying replacement, and People’s die-hards can rest easy: the Soviet-era propaganda posters and "Last Supper" murals of regulars still adorn the walls, and that big old bomb by the window doesn’t appear to be going anywhere.

The People’s Republik, located at 876 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open Sunday through Wednesday, from noon to 1 a.m., and on Thursday, Friday, and Saturda"y until 2 a.m. The kitchen is open daily until 8 p.m. Call (617) 492-8632.


Issue Date: December 12 - 18, 2003
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